The only mzungu on the matatu

Sadly, to travel out of Kampala my beloved boda bodas are not the best mode of transport (even I have my limits!) I've wanted to see the botanical gardens of Entebbe, Entebbe being the former administrative capital of Uganda until the 1960s, an hour's journey towards Lake Victoria. The botanical gardens were reportedly where an early Tarzan movie was shot and I've heard great things about the place.

In order to catch a matatu (taxi-bus) you must go to the 'Old Taxi Park' in the centre of Kampala. This place is totally Crazy! http://www.pbase.com/bmcmorrow/image/63363780 (thanks Brian McMorrow whoever you are). A heaving hell hole where matatus are rammed in together back to back, side by side, all waiting to go somewhere... how on earth they emerge in any order I have no idea, but emerge they do. People mass through the park, carrying and trying to sell their wares, find out where you are going, get money out of you. A kindly man took it upon himself to lead me over to the far corner of the park where the Entebbe bus was parked and proceeded to get disgruntled when I wouldn't pay him for his unrequested or required service. I was bundled into the last available seat on the bus and off we went... well, to join the static traffic jam which leads out of the taxi park. The only mzungu on the matatu – fairly conspicuous really, but it doesn't bother me any more. I take the stares, respond to them politely with smiles and get back to trying to blend in.

The botanical gardens are lush and tropical. Soaring palms, towering bamboo, long draping vines, vibrant blushing bourgainvillea – cheeky chatty monkeys flying through the treetops, what looked like a small dinosaur / crocodile crossing my path a couple of times, and the gardens sweeping down to the shore of Lake Victoria. A tranquil haven away from the taxi park's antithesis of tranquillity.

Another gem is Kampala's Baha'i Temple where we went for yesterday's Sunday morning service. I was initially drawn to this place for its green space in a city which has a significant lack of such areas. Perched on top of a hill, the temple is striking; a beautiful monument showing its graceful head above the ragged rush of everyday life. The Baha'i Faith propounds the spiritual unity of mankind – different religions are seen to pose no barriers to the oneness of life and God. The temple welcomes people from all faiths, symbolised by the 8 doors around its circular structure which are open throughout the service, onto views over the city through the calm of the surrounding gardens. It is really special.

Equally special was being listed all the merits of marrying a Ugandan man on my boda ride home, after revealing my unmarried status (have I learnt nothing?!) I did manage to get away this time, but these guys can be pretty persuasive, who knows what could happen in the next 3 weeks.....